Frangipani Eating Theatre @ Changkat Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur

Choosing precisely i identify I dear to swallow is tough. I'm quite a whore when it comes to eating. Give me fine dining amongst foie gras, oysters together with truffles coupled amongst nifty service together with I'm i happy gal. Throw me inwards the dorsum streets of Pudu to uncovering a slurp worthy bowl of Hakka mee together with I'm precisely equally ecstatic nearly it. There's also the diverse cuisines since I'm ofttimes game to create anything nether the Sun (except exotic meats) - Hunan, Malay, Indian, Italian together with etc. Hence it was really tough when Time Out KL asked me to nominate a favourite alternative for their Bloggers Choice Awards. Pinpointing i is similar throwing a needle inwards the haystack amongst me. So tough that I at i time away gravitated to my auto-mode go-to comfort choices such equally Cilantro together with Sage. Then, I stopped myself together with had a await at the nominees together with discovered they are already at that topographic point nether their fine dining category.


 


Fine dining inwards Kuala Lumpur remains a misnomer I reckon. I've ofttimes had endless arguments nearly its Definition - is it precisely the food, service or must it hold upward similar how the Michelin remove price it - hold upward worthy of royalty. It was foreign Frangipani was non inwards the listing since they scored high on the nutrient together with service was exceptional making them completely worthy of a nomination. It happens I guess...good places skid through the cracks of Internet voting together with etc. I'll likely have brickbats for this alternative but since Sage & Cilantro accept made it to the nomination list, I reckon Frangipani tin also bring together them side past times side.


 


Dining hither is much to a greater extent than than precisely a repast I reckon. It starts most importantly from their bill of fare that contains these lyrical brusk essays past times Chris Bauer, the homo behind the culinary creations. Each write upward details where he got his muse for inventiveness or the rationale of some constituent pairing that gives the much needed connectedness betwixt the kitchen together with the diner, that elusive link that attaches each dish amongst a retention together with face. Unfortunately for me, those opened upward concept kitchens they create to throw inwards our human face upward to laissez passer that connectedness precisely does non cutting it for me.


 




This is also a identify to hold upward seen...especially since most diners come upward hither precisely earlier they adjourn upstairs to the oh-so-happening bar. I produce dear the whole elegant gear upward afterwards yous force through the metallic doors peculiarly the atrium inwards the pump amongst the jet dark puddle that seems to add together a sense of airy space. While the side of the eatery offers lovely nooks for soul dining, I dear dining a deux precisely about the puddle since it adds a surely romance together with intimacy to the whole meal.


 


The bill of fare features classic dishes they accept perfected for years, something the typical fickle KL diner volition uncovering offensive but I love. Rumour has it that the Frangipani creators are crafting upward novel eateries at the exclusive dwellings of Troika on the higher floors. Seize the instant to relish a repast hither earlier things change....it seems inwards Oct or was it November.


 


What struck me is this is French nutrient amongst a contemporary air. There's also a deep appreciation of local ingredients hither inwards the apple tree rendang together with the usage of items such equally the buah keluak or Indonesian dark nut, betel foliage together with etc.


   


On to the nutrient together with what stood out for me inwards the meals I've eaten hither before. Favourites include those soft Irish Gaelic patato blinis topped amongst decadent caviar together with sour cream. The surprise is non the caviar but the innocent looking cauliflower truffle foam on the side amongst a fizzy texture that gives yous a truffle "hit" to the senses...simply sublime. There's also the interesting pairing of foie gras amongst an apple tree rendang served on a telephone of strudel - a squelch from the crisp pastry, a rich melt-in-the-mouth amongst the foie gras together with the earthy tastes of the spiced apple tree cubes.





 I also enjoyed the modest sweetness Kumamoto oysters amongst beetroot together with cucumber. Even someone's "black" rice risotto is perfectly al dente together with packed amongst umami flavours from the seafood together with bonito flakes topping it. I also evidently dear their classic, the warm tea smoked salmon amongst confit potatoes topped amongst ikura or salmon roe. It is i of the dishes that i time inspired me to fume my ain salmon at identify together with I dear the whole intense olfactory belongings that perfumes the pinkish flesh.


 


 It is tough to select mains hither since everything is thence good. The duck confit is fantabulous - crispy peel amongst a tender tear away meat. It is paired amongst mustard together with mashed potatoes. I also dear their version of grilled wagyu beef cheek amongst braised blood-red cabbage together with a Mexican mole sauce. Unlike other places, the beef cheek hither comes amongst a seared crust that tardily yields to the knife to discover its tenderness. The mouthfeel is perfect since the slight crust offers a beautiful contrast amongst all the softness. I dear the smoky flavours of the chocolate mole sauce likewise together with the tanginess from the braised blood-red cabbage. I also dear the buah keluak (Indonesian dark nuts) equally they're generous amongst the  chocolate-like tasting filling that pairs good amongst my tenderloin steak.


 


 Don't forget desserts here. Must-haves for me are the classic tarte tartin amongst its caramelised apples together with the interesting iced dark-green apple tree sorbet. I dear the decadent chocolate ganache paired amongst crisp French meringue or if preferred, the creamy H2O ice creams topped amongst Valrhona dark chocolate sauce. That nighttime nosotros dined here, it was caramelised banana together with rum & raisin flavours.


 


 We goal the repast amongst i of my favourite teas, Mariage-Fres fragile tisanes. Its a perfect goal to a perfect meal. Service is by together with large exceptionally proficient hither amongst wonderful recommendations from the hold off staff but at that topographic point are of course, slight bumps on the road. When it gets packed upward amongst people similar a Sabbatum night, the kitchen tends to heave a footling thence patience is needed. Best to precisely chat to your dining partner together with you'll uncovering it smoothen over afterwards some time. 


Do laissez passer this identify a peril together with vote for it during the Time Out KL Food awards for 2011. Incidentally, larn banking enterprise check out the shortlist of nominations together with identify your mouse over them to "undilah" your choices or forever agree your peace.


* Updated on 24 Sept: Duh! I forgot to inquire all of yous to also vote for me inwards the Bloggers Choice department inwards the Time Out KL Food Awards. Just click on the link to the shortlist. Thank yous all. 


Frangipani Bar & Restaurant
25 Changkat Bukit Bintang
Kuala Lumpur


Tel: 03-2144 3001


(Pork Free. Open from Tuesday to Sun for dinner only. Choose first, 2d together with tertiary courses for RM160. Add RM30 for dessert. Tasting bill of fare is RM220 together with RM390 amongst wine. Full laid of pictures are inwards the Flickr set. For to a greater extent than eatery details, run across their website link.)


* Part of the repast was an invited review but some other purpose was all paid for past times the reviewer.

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